Chao se is a traditional dish deeply intertwined with Hanoi’s culinary heritage, embodying long-standing cultural values. This simple yet sophisticated dish offers a delicate, refined taste, showcasing the meticulous craftsmanship of Hanoi’s residents.
Chao se is a distinctive traditional dish from Ha Mo Village, Dan Phuong District, located in Hanoi. Unlike typical porridge dishes, chao se is unique and vastly different from the regular porridge we often encounter. If you ever travel to Hanoi and visit Ha Mo Village, you should not miss the opportunity to savor this extraordinary dish, with its rustic and enticing flavors.
The special aspect of chao se lies in its ingredients and preparation method. Instead of using whole rice or rice flour like other porridge dishes, chao se is made from finely ground white rice. This rice is hand-rolled into long, thin strands, resembling the noodle dish "banh canh" from Central and Southern Vietnam. However, the difference is that the rice strands in chao se are soft and chewy due to the handmade preparation process, offering a distinct culinary experience.
The dish impresses not only with its delicate rice strands but also with the rich toppings. Meat, sesame seeds, and various spices are carefully seasoned, creating a harmonious and flavorful combination. This simple yet refined dish will surely leave a lasting impression if you have the chance to try it.
According to historical records, Ha Mo Village, also known as Ke O, was formerly O Dien, a region that played a significant role in the country’s history. It was home to the ancient O Dien Citadel, which served as the capital of the Van Xuan State during the reign of Emperor Ly Nam De in the 6th century. With such a rich history, Ha Mo is renowned not only for its ancient relics but also for its legendary traditional cuisine, with chao se standing out as a highlight.
Legend has it that chao se first appeared hundreds of years ago, linked to a military victory celebration. It is said that whenever Prince Ly Bat Lang returned victorious, he would host a feast, slaughtering pigs to serve the commanders and soldiers. The meat was reserved for the generals, while the bones were boiled to create a broth for the soldiers to eat with rice. However, during one visit to the army, the prince noticed the soldiers’ meals were lacking in nutrition, so he ordered his attendant to create a new dish using the available ingredients to nourish the troops.
With creativity and skill, the attendant came up with the special dish chao se. He ground white rice into fine flour, kneaded it with warm water to form a dough, and skillfully rolled it into thin strands. These strands were then dropped into the boiling pork broth, along with any leftover meat on the bones, which loosened into soft pieces, blending into the dish.
When the strands were placed into the broth, they twisted into long pieces, resembling small eels wrapping around the chunks of pork bones. The boiling process caused the meat to fall off the bones, making the dish rich and flavorful. To add a creamy texture, a small amount of rice flour was mixed with water and added to the pot, making the dish more visually appealing and delicious. The dish quickly became a cherished culinary tradition in Ha Mo Village.
When the attendant presented the dish to the prince, he personally tasted it and praised the handcrafted rice strands for their perfect chewiness, with a delicate crunch in the center. The sweetness of the pork meat and the richness of the broth created a balanced, pleasing flavor. Prince Ly Bat Lang even compared the strands of soft meat wrapping around the bones to the soldiers surrounding their commanders, symbolizing the unity within the army.
From then on, chao se became an essential dish at every military feast. Prince Ly Bat Lang decreed that this dish must always be prepared for the soldiers during celebrations. It became not only a symbol of culinary art but also the prince’s favorite dish. On the 12th day of August in the year of the Rabbit (571), after another victorious return to Ô Diên Citadel, the prince passed away during a grand military feast, enveloped in a mysterious black cloud, leaving his people in mourning.
Following his death, the locals built a temple to honor Prince Ly Bat Lang under the orders of Emperor Ly Phat Tu. Future dynasties also bestowed royal titles upon him, venerating him as the village’s guardian deity. Every year on the 12th day of the first lunar month, Ha Mo Village hosts a traditional festival to commemorate the birth of their guardian deity and the death of Prince Lý Bát Lang.
During this festival, the “Chao Se Khao Quan” (Chao Se Feast) is offered to the guardian deity as a symbol of gratitude and respect. The dish not only symbolizes culinary tradition but also connects the people with a glorious period in history when O Dien was once the capital of the Van Xuan State. Thus, the people of Ha Mo proudly call the dish "Chao Se Van Xuan."
The key ingredients for chao se include finely ground white rice and pork bone broth, served with stir-fried minced pork and fragrant fried shallots. Though the ingredients may seem simple, the preparation process requires meticulous attention to detail. The villagers of Ha Mo grind white rice into a smooth paste, which is then placed into a cloth bag and hung to drain slowly. This process removes excess water and makes the dough soft, smooth, and elastic enough to roll into strands.
The broth is made from pork bones, simmered for hours to extract a naturally sweet flavor. The broth is kept clear by skimming off any foam, ensuring a clean, pure taste. The use of pork tail bones adds a deeper sweetness to the broth without needing too many seasonings. Each pot of broth is the heart of the dish, bringing forth the essence and nutrition in every spoonful of cháo.
When the broth is ready, the heat is reduced, and the dough is cut into small portions and rolled into strands the thickness of chopsticks. These strands are then gently dropped into the simmering broth. This step requires quick and steady hands to ensure the strands don't break or stick together while maintaining the right level of chewiness.
The most challenging part of making cháo se is stirring the pot continuously but gently, to prevent the strands from breaking or clumping together, while ensuring they remain soft. To add smoothness and gloss to the porridge, a small amount of tapioca or glutinous rice flour can be mixed in. The dish is best cooked in a cast-iron pot over a wood fire to maintain a steady heat and avoid burning or sticking.
Once cooked, the strands turn translucent and soft without a doughy core. At this point, stir-fried minced pork and seasonings are added to enhance the flavor. To further enrich the dish, some sprinkle chopped scallions, pepper, roasted peanuts, or sesame seeds over the porridge before serving.
Cháo se is especially appealing on cold winter days. Each soft strand, soaked in sweet broth, paired with tender pork and the crunch of roasted peanuts or sesame, creates a warm, rustic, and comforting experience. This dish not only represents a culinary tradition but is also a source of pride for the historically rich Ha Mo Village.
Currently, chao se is not widely available in Hanoi. If you want to experience the authentic taste of this traditional dish, the best option is to visit Ha Mo Village, in Dan Phuong District. The village is home to several local eateries that have preserved the true essence of this dish through generations. However, as Ha Mo is located in the outskirts of Hanoi, you’ll need to prepare for a slightly longer journey.
Alternatively, if you prefer to stay within central Hanoi, there are a few places where you can enjoy chao se without traveling far:
We hope that BDATrip’s travel guide has helped you discover this delightful dish that you can’t miss when visiting the thousand-year-old capital.
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